Rehabilitation of a Puppy Mill Dog
(See the orginial article!)
The following article is one that was written
by Michelle Bender and Kim Townsend.
It explains the worst case scenario involved with rehabilitating Bichons who
have been rescued from commercial kennels.
When you see a Bichon for adoption on our
Petfinder's Page that must be adopted by
a home with another dog in residence, this
is why. Dogs rescued from commercial kennels
simply do not know how to relate to people.
They only know how to relate to other dogs.
Another dog in the home will teach the puppy
mill rescue to trust people. The other dog
will teach the new rescued dog about going
outside for toilet duties. Another dog in
the home with teach the rescued dog to be
a family member, instead of a farm animal.
In the beginning, we adopted mill survivors
to homes without another dog in residence.
They came back to us 100% of the time.
This is not a rule that can be broken.
Mill survivors have never been around other
people, much less small children. For your
children's safety, we ask that mill Bichons
go only to adult homes, or homes with older
children over 12.
Thank you for your understanding.
Rehabilitation of a Puppy Mill Dog
Disclaimer: The following is the opinion
of the authors (Michelle Bender) and (Kim Townsend) and is based on their years of experience
with dogs and the knowledge they have gained.
Also, please note that an adopted puppy mill
rescued dog may be at different "stages"
of rehab so they have tried to start this
from the beginning stand point.
Every mill survivor is different. What works
on one or many, will completely fail on another.
The only thing that is consistent is that
they will need lots of patience, understanding
and love. And probably most importantly,
acceptance. Unconditional acceptance of what
they are capable of giving, and taking.
At first glance a mill survivor may look
like many of your friends' dogs. Maybe not
a perfect example of the breed, but close.
What you won't see is the condition that
they came into rescue in. Hair so matted
that it all had to be shaved off. Even the
short haired breeds suffer from thin dull
coats when they come to us. Many times removing
the filth and matting have only revealed
open sores, usually from flea allergies or
sarcoptic mange. Ears are full of filth and
usually mites. Some survivors suffer from
permanent hearing loss because of untreated
ear infections. Most survivors require the
removal of rotten teeth, even young dogs.
The gums are usually very infected and the
teeth have excessive buildup on them. Many
vets who are not familiar with puppy mill
rescued dogs will misdiagnose age if going
by the teeth. Many survivors also suffer
from swollen, splayed and sore feet from
so much time walking on wire. So while finally
getting some good nutrition and extensive
medical care can go a long way on the outside,
the real damage has been done to the inside.
I'd love to say that every puppy mill survivor
only needs love to turn it into a wonderful
family pet. But that would be a lie. Love
is definitely needed in large amounts, but
so is patience. The damage done during the
years in the mill usually can be overcome,
but it takes time and dedication. It takes
a very special adopter for one of these dogs.
Not being "up to it" is no crime,
but you need to be honest with yourself,
and us, about your expectations. These dogs
have been through more than they ever should
have already. If the entire family is not
willing to make the commitment, the dog is
better off staying in our care until the
perfect home for them is found.
Handling:
Many mill survivors have spent their entire
life in the mill. No romping around a living
room playing with friends of the family for
them. Only a cold wire cage, and one person
"tending" to them. Puppies who
grow up in a mill miss out on many crucial
socialization periods with humans. They don't
learn to trust, to love, to play. They have
had very minimum physical contact with people.
No cuddling and kissing for them.
The physical contact that they have received
probably has not been pleasant. For one thing,
because they are not handled enough, they
are scared. Many mills handle their "stock"
by the scruff of the neck. They have work
to do, and don't really want to stand around
holding some stinky little dog any longer
than necessary. So it is not uncommon for
these survivors to be sensitive to the backs
of their necks, after all, it brings the
unexpected. Many mill dogs will try to always
face you, not trusting you enough to give
you easy access to them from behind. NEVER
startle a mill survivor from behind, you
will lose any trust that you may have gained.
Always make sure that they are anticipating
you picking them up and consistently verbally
tell them what you are going to do with the
same word, like "up". It is not
uncommon for a mill dog to drop their bellies
to the floor when they know you are going
to pick them up. Some will even roll onto
their backs in submission.
Always be gentle and try to avoid picking
them up until you see that they are receptive
to it. It's almost a 'hostage' type situation
to these dogs. Imagine how you would feel
if taken hostage at gunpoint. The gunman
may never harm you in any way, but you are
aware of the danger the entire time and you
don't have the ability to leave when you
want. No matter how nice the gunman is to
you, you will never enjoy the experience
and will always watch for an escape route.
However, you can turn the tables around and
see a ray of hope. Imagine the gunman has
been captured and you decide to visit him
in jail. Now you are in control. you call
all the shots, you have the ability to leave
at any time. The bottom line is that these
dogs have to progress at their own pace.
Anything you force them to do will not be
pleasant to them.
Learning about the House:
Many times when you bring a mill survivor
into your home, it is their instinct to hide
in a quiet corner. Any new dog that you bring
into your home should be kept separated from
other family pets for 7 days. During this
time it is fine to crate or confine them
to a quiet area. After that though, they
need to have exposure to the household. If
crating, the crate should be in a central
location. The ideal spot is one where there
is frequent walking and activity. This allows
the dog to feel safe in the crate, yet observe
everyday activity and become used to it.
They need to hear the table being set, the
dishwasher running, phones ringing, and people
talking.
Very few mill dogs know what a leash is.
During this time when the dog is out of the
crate and supervised, it is not a bad idea
to let them drag a leash around with them.
Let them get used to the feel. It is easy
to fall into the mindset that they must be
pampered and carried everywhere, but leash
training is important. It will make your
life easier to have a leash trained dog,
but also will offer your dog confidence in
the future.
Gaining Trust:
A mill dog has no reason to trust you. Your
trust needs to be earned, little by little.
Patience is a very important part. I have
seen a lot of mill dogs not want to eat whenever
people are around. It is important that your
mill dog be fed on a schedule, with you near
by. You don't have to stand and watch over
them but should be in the same room with
them. They need to know that their yummy
meal is coming from you. For the majority
of mill dogs, accepting a treat right out
of your hand is a huge show of trust. Offer
treats on a regular basis especially as a
reward.
While you shouldn't overly force yourself
upon your dog, it does need to get used to
you. Sit and talk quietly while gently petting
or massaging your dog. It is best to do this
an area where they, not necessarily you,
are the most comfortable. They probably won't
like it at first, but will get used to it.
Some dogs sadly, never do though, and I'll
talk more about them later.
Never allow friends to force attention on
a mill survivor. Ask them not to look your
dog directly in the eyes. It is not uncommon
for mill dogs to simply never accept outsiders.
Let your dog set the pace. If the dog approaches,
ask them to talk quietly and hold out a hand.
No quick movements. Ask that any barking
be ignored. Remember that dogs bark to warn
and scare off intruders. If you acknowledge
the barking you may be reinforcing it with
attention. If you bring your guest outside
you have just reinforced to your dog that
barking will make the intruder go away.
Housebreaking:
A child spends the first 12-18 months of
their life soiling their diaper and having
you remove the dirty diaper and replace it
with a clean one. A puppy mill dog spends
its entire life soiling its living area.
Potty training a child and housebreaking
a puppy mill dog are the exact same procedures...you
are UN-teaching them something that they
have already learned to be acceptable. A
regular schedule, constant reinforcement,
praise, and commitment on your part are a
must! Would you ever scream at your child,
march them to the bathroom and make them
sit on the toilet AFTER you discovered they
soiled their diaper? A dog is no different
in this sense. Scolding them after the deed
is done is of no benefit to anyone.
The two most important things you can do
are to get your new dog on a regular feeding
pattern (which will put them on a regular
potty pattern) and observe them closely after
feeding time.
Getting them on a premium, low residue food
is very important. This will produce a stool
which normally is firm (very easy to clean
up) and only one or two bowel movements a
day are normal. Low cost or over the counter
foods have a lot of fillers and it is very
hard to get a dog on a regular cycle using
these foods.
Before you even begin to housebreak them,
you must learn their schedule. Most dogs
will need to 'go' right after eating. As
soon as they are finished eating, command
"Outside". Always use the exact
same word in the exact same tone. Watch them
closely outside and observe their pattern
as they prepare to defecate. Some will turn
circles, some will scratch at the ground,
some may find a corner, some may sniff every
inch of the ground, some will get a strange
look on their face...every dog is different
and you have to learn to recognize how the
dog will behave right before he goes. This
way you will recognize it when he gets ready
to go in the house.
We could give you a million tips that our
adopters have found to work best for them,
but as I said, every dog is different. As
long as you always keep in mind that housebreaking
and potty training are one in the same. Never
do to a dog what you would not do to a child.
It may take a week, it may take a month,
it may take a year...and sadly, some dogs
will never learn. Never give up and never
accept 'accidents' as a way of life. In most
cases, the success of housebreaking depends
on your commitment.
Marking:
Puppy mill survivors all have one thing in
common...they were all used for breeding.
A dog which marks its territory is 'warning'
other dogs that this is its area...stay away!
However, in a puppy mill situation, the dog's
area is normally a 2X4 cage with other dogs
in and around their 'territory'. It becomes
a constant battle of establishing territory
and it is not uncommon to see male and female
survivors with marking problems.
Normally, marking is seen in dogs with a
dominant nature. This is good in the sense
that these dogs can normally withstand verbal
correction better than submissive dogs. The
word 'NO' will become your favorite word
as you try to deal with the problem of dogs
that mark. Don't be afraid to raise your
voice and let the dog know that you are not
happy. Always use the exact same word and
don't follow 'NO' with "now what has
mommy told you about that, you are a bad
dog."
Dogs that are marking do not have to potty...taking
them outside will not help. You have to teach
them that it is not acceptable to do this
in the house. The only way to do this is
to constantly show your disappointment and
stimulate their need to 'dominate' by taking
them outside and even to areas where you
know other dogs have been...like the park,
or the nearest fire hydrant.
While you and your survivor learn about each
other and your survivor develops a sense
of respect for you, you will have to protect
your home from the damage caused by marking.
Here are a few tips that you will find helpful.
1. White vinegar is your best friend. Keep
a spray bottle handy at all times. Use the
vinegar anytime you see your dog mark. The
vinegar will neutralize the smell that your
dog just left behind. Using other cleaning
products may actually cause your dog to mark
over the same area again. Most cleaning products
contain ammonia...the very scent found in
urine. Your dog will feel the need to mark
over normal cleaning products, but normally
has no interest in areas neutralized by vinegar.
2. Potty Pads....your next best friend. These
can be found in any pet store, but most 'housebreaking
pads' are treated with ammonia to encourage
a puppy to go on the pad instead of the carpet.
You might check at a home medical supply
store. The blue and white pads used to protect
beds usually work best. Staple, tape or pin
these pads to any area that your dog is prone
to mark (walls, furniture, etc.). Do not
replace the pads when your dog soils them...simply
spray them down with vinegar. These are not
a solution to the problem, but will help
protect your home while you deal with the
problem.
3. Scotch Guard. Scotch Guard is really nothing
more than a paraffin based protector. It
puts a waxy substance down which repels water
and spills (and in our case, urine). You
can make your own product by filling a spray
bottle about 1/2 full of hot water. Shave
off slivers of paraffin wax into the bottle
(about 1/4 a bar should be fine) and then
microwave until you don't see the slivers
anymore. Shake and spray this onto the fabric
areas you want to protect, such as the base
of the sofa and the carpet below doorways
or areas your dog is apt to mark. It may
make the area stiff feeling at first but
it will normally 'blend' in with normal household
temperatures and humidity. (note: This is
also great for high traffic areas of your
home or along the carpet in front of the
couch).
With the use of vinegar and/or homemade scotch
guard, you should test a small area of the
fabric/fiber that you will be using the product
on and make sure it does not discolor, stain,
or bleed. I have never had any problems,
but it is always best to check beforehand.
4. Belly Bands. Sometimes these can be a
(male) mill dog owners best friend. Belly
bands can be easily made at home out of things
you probably already have. Depending on the
size of your dog you can use the elastic
end of your husbands tube socks, the sleeve
of sweatshirt, etc. Simply fit the material
to your dog and then place a female sanitary
napkin under the penis. Another easy way
is to measure your dog, cut the fabric and
sew on Velcro to hold it in place. There
are also many sites on the internet to order
these if making them yourself is just not
up your alley. Just remember to take the
belly band off every time you bring your
dog out to potty. Again, this is not a solution,
but a protective measure.
Quirks:
Poo-poo, shoo-shoo, ca-ca, doo-doo, #2, feces,
poop, stool...whatever 'pet' name you give
it, it's still gross! But nothing is more
gross than owning a dog who eats poop!
Coprophagia is the technical term, but for
the purpose of this article, we're just going
to call it the 'affliction'.
Dogs of all breeds, ages and sizes have the
affliction but in puppy mill rescues, it
is not uncommon at all to find dogs afflicted
with this horrible habit. As in any bad habit,
the cure lies in understanding the unacceptable
behavior.
There are three primary reasons that a puppy
mill survivor is afflicted. I'll start with
the most common, and easiest to remedy.
1. It tastes good and they are hungry! Rescues
that have come from a mill where dogs were
not fed properly often resort to eating their
own or other dog's feces as a source of food.
These types of situations will usually
remedy themselves when the dog realizes that
he is always going to get fed. It is also
easy to discourage this behavior by adding
over-the-counter products to their food which
are manufactured for this purpose. Ask your
vet what products are available and you will
normally see results in 2-4 weeks.
2. Learned behavior. This is usually the
cause of puppy mill dogs that have the affliction.
There are several reasons why a dog learned
to behave like this, but the most common
cause is being housed with dominant dogs
who fight over food. These dominant dogs
will often guard the food dish and prevent
the more submissive dogs from eating even
if the dominant dog is not hungry. Food aggression
in caged dogs is usually fast and furious
and often results in severe injury to the
submissive dogs. Because the dominant dog
is often eating much more than is needed,
the stool is virtually undigested and contains
many of the nutrients and 'flavors' as the
original meal and is therefore almost as
tasty to the submissive dog as if he'd ate
the real thing.
This eating pattern is usually maintained
throughout the dog's life, so the age of
your dog will play a big role in how hard
it is to correct the behavior. It's become
habit...and as the saying goes, "Old
habits are hard to break".
Dogs with this affliction will actually go
hunting for a fresh stool when you take them
outside. The key is to give your dog something
better to hunt for. Pop some unbuttered/unsalted
microwave popcorn and sprinkle it on the
lawn before taking your dog out in the morning.
You may find something that he likes better
and is as readily available and affordable.
The good thing about popcorn is what your
dog doesn't eat, the birds will. I can almost
guarantee that once your dog has learned
to search out the popcorn, he'll pass those
fresh turds right up, LOL! It may take weeks
or months before your dog 'unlearns' to seek
out stools but most dogs are receptive to
this training. You may have to sprinkle the
lawn with popcorn the rest of your dog's
life...but the trouble is well worth just
one 'popcorn kiss' as opposed to a lick on
the face right after he eats a tasty turd.
3. As mentioned above, Coprophagia means
'eating poop'. Coprophagia is a form of a
much more serious problem called Pica. Pica
is the unnatural 'need' to eat foreign objects.
Dogs suffering from Pica will eat not only
stools, but rocks, dirt, sticks, etc. Remember
the kid in school who ate paste and chalk
and 'other unspeakables'? Pica is a psychological
disorder which is much more in depth and
serious than anything I can discuss in this
guide.
A good rescuer will observe dogs prior to
placement and will recognize the seriousness
of this problem. A dog suffering from Pica
should never be placed in an inexperienced
home or any home that is not aware of the
problem and the dangers. Dogs suffering from
Pica will often end up having surgery...often
several times...for objects they have ate
that can not be digested. If you are the
owner of a dog which you believe suffers
from
Pica, I suggest you consult your vet. These
dogs often require medication for their disorder
and only your vet can guide you on the best
way to proceed.
Before I close this section on Pica, I want
to say that true Pica is rare. Most dogs
will chew on sticks or rocks...or sofas and
table legs. However a dog suffering from
Pica will not just chew on these items...they
will eat these items any chance they get.
Just because your dog is eating his own stool...and
also the bar stool at the kitchen counter...does
not mean that he is suffering from Pica.
If in doubt, consult your vet.
The "special" ones:
Occasionally, we see the survivor who has
survived the mill, but at such a great cost
that they can never be "brought around".
These are the dogs that have endured so much
suffering that they remind me of children
who are abused who survive by separating
their mind from the body. They will never
fully trust anyone. So where does that leave
these poor souls? Most are still capable
of living out a wonderful life. They need
a scheduled environment but most importantly,
a home where they are excepted for who and
what they are. They may never jump up on
a couch and cuddle with you, or bring you
a ball to play catch. But you will see the
joy that they take in living each day knowing
that they will have clean bedding, fresh
food and water, and unconditional love. To
them, those small comforts alone are pure
bliss.
I'm sure that more things will come to mind
that we will want to add, so please feel
free to check back here for additions.